Chisel Grip Vs Half Crimp, The half crimp is the grip with the broadest range of applications in climbing, yet many are uncertain exactly how to perform it. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. I've noticed that beginner hangboarders tend to try to hang in half-crimp but their fingers immediately fall into a more open-handed position, sometimes they even drop the pinky. That's good to know. I only hangboard at 1/2 crimp. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. Half crimp is all fingers crimped. Four finger half crimp 2. Finger Anatomy also plays into it, for example some people have really short pinkies and tend to either 3fd a lot of holds, or use more of a "chisel" grip (middle and ring finger crimping, index and pinky open) when others might half crimp. Using the right climbing grips reduces injuries and makes the experience more enjoyable. Nov 10, 2021 · I think a half-crimp allows you to control more outward force than an open-handed grip once you're gripping a hold between your shoulder and waist height, whereas, when you throw for a high hold you're more likely to end up catching it in an open-handed way. For the most part just do what feels comfortable at this stage. For those wondering, the chisel grip is a variation of the half crimp, where the index finger is straight and used more passively. Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. Full is like deep crimp and wrapped thumb, usually. I've even seen quite experienced climbers do this (to be fair, I don't think these climbers work too many crimpy climbs). The chisel is effectively, a half-crimp where the index is kept straight. And I understand the last image is a full crimp since the My default grip, especially when trying hard at my limit, has been chisel (like half crimp, but index is opened). I prefer chisel or full crimp depending on the hold. But the third image is what I’m confused on. I’m stronger at 1/2 crimp than open hand (chisel) grip. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. I’ve heard it’s weaker than other grips but it doesn’t matter if it feels good. Oct 31, 2019 · I'm wondering what is the typical expected strength ratio between full crimp, half crimp, chisel, and 3-finger drag? You get strong at what you train. If that's true, then yes, I'd prefer to train the correct half crimp grip. It’s like a mix between open hand and half crimp. Mar 2, 2026 · This guide breaks down open-hand, half-crimp, and full-crimp techniques, showing you exactly when and how to use each grip type while preventing the A2 pulley strains that sideline ambitious climbers for months. Three finger drag 3. Chisel grip strains your A2 significantly less than half crimp, and using the muscles you developed from 3 years of climbing on your less-trained A2's will leave you at a higher risk of injury. However, views are divided when it comes use of the chisel for deadhanging. Constantly touted as the gold standard, is it worth it to force myself to learn to half crimp? (via hangboarding and being conscious of half crimping when climbing) Half crimping doesn’t cause If you're good at half-crimping you will be able to 'chisel' but not vice versa! Full crimp Going back in time, this was the grip that my generation used for every type of hold, including slopers! Chisel is where you crimp your longer fingers but leave your shorter fingers open handed. Learn more about half crimp training here. Mostly depends on your finger anatomy wether or not chisel makes sense. Specificity 2. Th Another possible grip that can be used for Arm-Lifting is the chisel. This is called a chisel grip. I understand that the first image is an open grip and according to some people the second one is a half crimp since the first two joints are in line and the hand is bent at 90 degrees. Is the third one also a half crimp or not since the second joint is higher than the ends of the fingers. Start at the bottom and train up any grip type that will help fulfill your larger goal. The thumb either rests next to the index finger or nestles into the side of the hold, if possible. This is a popular grip for campusing, finger-tip pull-ups, endurance training and warming up, simply because for most climbers, it feels so robust. The index, middle and ring fingers are bent at 90 degrees and the pinky will be straight, simply because it’s shorter. Just always important to train varying grips too. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. He claims that you should rather train the half crimp, as the half crimp will make your chisel grip stronger as well, but the chisel grip will not make your half crimp grip stronger. Not sure if this came about due to finger length or lack of intentional half crimping.
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